Tuesday, January 13, 2026

The Ghost of Tom Joad Knocking at the Door: A Pilgrim's Journey into the CaliforniAmerican Heartland--58. Leaving the Sierra Nevada


Kaweah River, Steve Brown 2022

I love the rivers of California.  They are boulder-strewn and feathered with plumes of white water.  They drop quickly and are not quiet.  They must be astonishing during the high waters of spring.  I only know them from the summer when pools of deep green water are connected by winding ribbons of white.  Boulders islands sit high and sunbaked, ready for young kids to scamper up out of the brutally cold water to sun themselves before easing themselves back into that icy current.  My memories are filled with blue dragon flies and floating boats in the little coves along the shoreline, careful not to venture out too far, for even in the dead of summer, currents are swift.

It was April when we drove through Three Rivers, but with the extreme drought, it might as well have been August, and so, when I stopped to look at the Kaweah River, it was astonishingly like the rivers I knew from my youth--the American, Carson, Truckee, and Feather.

I didn't know what to think of the giant Sequoia.  They were clearly grand, but they were not the Coastal Redwoods I knew so well.  I couldn't take my eyes off them, but they also didn't feel part of me.  They were otherworldly, disconnected from the various Californias I knew from my childhood.  But the Kaweah River on this day, April 15, 2022, said to me, You know me, even though I'd actually never seen it before.  It felt good, and I hated to get back in the car and drive on.  

The day before, against my will, I longed for the trip to be over.  There comes a point in every road trip where you move from anxiously awaiting the next sight to just wishing you were home.  That point had come many miles and a couple days back at Eastman Lake, but this river now was pushing my love of travel back to the forefront.  All of the sudden I didn't want the trip to end.  I didn't want to face the unknowns of my kidney disease.  Home would mean facing reality, whatever that would be.  I just wanted to travel down this road with Marci forever.

I got back in the car, filled with a mild dread.  Soon we would be leaving the Sierra Nevada for who knows how long?  Why would anyone in their right mind ever do that?  Donnor Lake, Taho, Sand Pond, June Lake, Sierra Buttes, Mt. Rose, Yosemite.  Why, why would anyone ever leave that pine and granite paradise?

I didn't know the southern Sierra as well.  Still, there was clearly enough in common to tug at my heart and make me want to plant myself there forever.  

Yet, a journey has a timeline, and so you go.

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