Saturday, September 28, 2019

The Great Texas Road Trip Thank-You Tour: 34. Dallas and a Day of Art, No. 3. The Dallas Museum of Art

Composition with Large Blue Plane, Red, Black
Yellow and Gray
by Piet Mondrian, 1921

The fist time I ever visited the Dallas Museum of Art, it was still housed over in Fair Park.  It wasn't much of a museum then, but it was more than I had ever seen.  I was astounded when I walked in and saw a huge Franz Kline painting, Slate Cross, where big black strokes of paint interrupted the white plain of canvas in the most shocking way.  It was as bold as a silhouetted elm against a field of blue-gray snow on an evening cold enough to stop the heart.  I was in ninth grade; I'd ventured down to the museum alone, and at least internally, my life would never be the same.

It's not as if I'd never seen a piece of abstract art before.  My brother was an artist, and while in college moved from realism to abstract expressionism.  I saw abstract art all of the time.  But, Lloyd had seemed like an oddity.  I liked how his small room at Dad's house in Reno was crowded with books and paintings, but upon seeing that Kline painting at the DMA, I realized, There's a whole world out there dedicated to this stuff.  Life was not limited to The Brady Bunch and Gilligan's Island after all.  There was more to life than E.T.  There were big, bold beautiful acts out there, people flinging their soul towards the open space of a canvas in the same way Elton John pounded his soul into the keyboard of a grand piano.

After the shock of Kline, what impacted me even more was Mondrian's painting,  Composition with Large Blue Plane, Red, Black, Yellow, and Gray (above).  That was only natural, I guess, as drawn to architecture as I was.  There was something just so right about the red rectangle down towards the lower left, and the way it was balanced by the yellow one on the right.  Color and placement were everything.  Where this attraction came from, I have no idea.  I grew up without any connection to the world of art whatsoever beyond watching my brother paint.  He always demonstrated talent, but he grew up in the same household as me, and for most of that time, he had no more education in art than I did.  But whatever it was, as soon as I saw modernism, I knew it was something to be reckoned with.  Something simple, pure and profound.  A new way of seeing, of really seeing and experiencing the world around you.  Of course, it wasn't new to most of the world.  Just me.  But I when I saw it, I felt alive.

And so it was to remain that way through my high school and college years.  Once the new DMA building downtown opened in 1984, while I was a junior in high school, it became a second home.  I went with Lloyd.  I went with friends.  I went by myself.  Back then it was free, and it was great place to be, no matter how little money you had in your pocket.  However, much of the collection I simply ignored.  I was focused on Modernism, and I definitely had my favorites, and supreme among them was a marvelous little painting by Wassily Kandinsky, Murnau, Burggrabenstrasse 1, an incredibly loose rendition of a town in the alps, that although done in oil, looks as if it were created with saltwater taffy and then set upright in a bright window on a hot, sunny day.  The colors are vibrant.  The world is oozing and unstable.  The perspective draws you into the picture while the sloping, unstable oozing of the street causes you to lose your balance and stagger drunkenly towards the lower right hand corner where you run into what appears to be a tree, which holds you visually in the picture plane until you are rested enough to climb back up that caramelized road towards the bright sunlit shops.  Viewing that painting is truly an amazing experience. 

Murnau, Burggrabenstrasse 1 by Wassily Kandinsky, 1908
However, this time through the museum, I was drawn to many of the pre-modernist works that I'd previously largely ignored, especially examples of romanticism.  There are these dark curls of paint, little gloomy globs of detail that combine to make up these grand, expansive scenes.

Mountain Landscape with an Approaching Storm by Claude-Joseph Vernet, 1774-1775

A great example of this is Mountain Landscape with an Approaching Storm by 18th Century French Artist, Claude-Joseph Vernet, which admittedly had always caught my eye even back when my heart belonged solely to modernism, mainly because of it's scale.  At 64 1/2 inches by 103 1/4 inches, it doesn't go unnoticed.  At a distance, though dramatic, the painting is too removed from reality by romantic exaggeration to fully grab my senses.  However, up close, and with this painting's scale the viewer doesn't have to take too many steps forward, the painting comes alive with movement that is so real you can almost hear the thundering of the waterfall, and feel the mist as a significant wind carries a cold spray towards you.  The swirling, exquisitely detailed landscape captures the power of the divine.

Detail of Mountain Landscape with an Approaching Storm 
As much as I was captivated by Vernet's imaginative encounter with the sublime, I was even more taken with the quieter, yet still dark and moody, Frederiksborg Castle by the Norwegian artist Johan Christian Dahl.  The painting claims the same dark pallet and romantic preoccupation with stone structures and the small scale of the individual human in the broader landscape as does the Vernet painting, but does so more naturally.  Plus Dahl got the evening light--both in the sky and the mote-- so right it simply transports us there.  Whereas Vernet forces the sublime on the viewer through exaggeration, Dahl simply invites the viewer into the sublime through realistic representation of an actual place on an actual evening.  The painting is profoundly beautiful in its simple adherence to reality.

Frederiksborg Castle by Johan Christian Dahl, 1817 

And so we spent the day winding our way through the collections of the DMA until we were quite tired.  I thought I had no more to give until I rounded a corner and was confronted with Edward Hopper's Lighthouse Hill blazing in afternoon glory on its own separate wall.  I had always liked the picture.  In fact I have a poster of it hanging in my classroom, but this time I found it to be the single most powerful piece in the collection.  To be honest my favorite little Kandinsky didn't have a chance.  Nor did the Mondrian.  Placement, I guess, is important, because simply moving this painting upgraded it from notable to breathtaking.  After seeing it, I was filled.  I needed nothing more.  We could leave.

Lighthouse Hill by Edward Hopper, 1927
And we soon did.  Hungry and exhausted we exited one of the finest museums in the country, my old second home, the Dallas Museum of Art, where I spent many hours as a teenager wandering around, sitting, contemplating, just idly being.  What could be better?

Sunday, September 22, 2019

The Great Texas Road Trip Thank-You Tour: 33. Dallas and a Day of Art, No. 2. Salvador Dali at The Meadows Museum

Phantom Cart by Fundacio Gala-Salvador Dali, 1933
Our plan had been to been to visit the Dallas World Aquarium next; Cheryl Vogel at Valley House Gallery convinced us that our time would be better spent viewing the exhibit that just opened at SMU's Meadows Museum:  Dali:  Poetics of the Small, 1929-1936.  As she put it, "The aquarium will always be there, but this--this is a once in a lifetime opportunity".  I had my heart set on the aquarium.  I love any place that lets me laser-focus in on nature, even if it is in an artificially constructed environment.  When my dad came to visit us when I was a child, he often took us to Hogle Zoo in Salt Lake City, and I've loved zoos ever since.  My small band of friends in Dallas and I spent many hours at the Dallas Zoo and the Fort Worth Zoo, as well as the Fort Worth Botanical Gardens.  Marci and I took our honeymoon to Monterrey, California because I wanted to see Cannery Row, the setting of my favorite Steinbeck novel, but I was actually more captivated by the Monterrey Bay Aquarium.  There is something so serene seeing the world from under that thin glassy lip that separates the aquatic world from the world of air.  As a child, my father took us to a small pond in the Sierras called Sand Pond, and I'd spend as much time as I could under that clear cold water watching ripples of light drift languidly across the sandy bottom.  It was glorious.  In short, that day in Dallas I had my heart set on the aquarium, and my mind was trying to justify skipping the Dali exhibit.

However, looking at Marci, it was clear she preferred to go to the Meadows Museum.  As the trip was already tilted in my favor enjoyment-wise--this was my memory lane, not hers--I decided I should fold up my selfish self, put him in my pocket, and do the right thing.  So, with all the courage I had, I did.  Sometimes the ego is such an incredible foe to overcome.

Razzle-dazzle, rip, roar, funk!  I just thought of that as I got up from typing this page and went to get three sugar-free wafer cookies and a glass of milk.  Writing can be such a tedious process.  Reading can be too.  Especially the expository parts, like this.  Perhaps, like me, you need a break.  So, here are some details to ground you in the moment:

Just after crossing Lovers Lane, while headed south on Hillcrest Avenue, you enter a commercial area of low, one- and two-story 1950s glass-front street shops that are on the right-hand side of the road.  All have there own parking right off the street, all are individually built, and most have cloth awnings of various colors, making the neighborhood bright and festive.  There are some very mundane establishments like Nu-Care Cleaners and Sarkis Oriental Rug Repair and Cleaning (We buy and sell!), but there are also zippy places like Burger House Hamburgers with its flashy pink neon sign, bright yellow early-modernist canopy covering a couple benches and single trash can.

On the corner of Hillcrest and Ashby, we found a place to park in front of Digg's Taco Shop.  This shopping center was clearly newer, but designed to fit in.  Besides the sign at Digg's looked cool, and the place had big windows facing the street, so I thought, Why not get something to eat before heading over to the museum?  They weren't the best street tacos I've ever had, but they weren't bad.  Most importantly, it was crowded, alive with college students, and it had high bar stools along a lunch counter that looked out towards the street.  We had cool drinks, ate our tacos, and life was good--as it so often is when your only obligation is to be.  We had no demands other than the agenda we set together, which we could quickly scrap anytime we decided we didn't give a damn.

We did give a damn though, so we ate quickly and headed across the street to the thick greenery and oppressively coordinated old-style university buildings of SMU, where every edifice screams We are oh so rich and educated here.  I wanted to grab a bat and smash out all of the windows of the BMW's, but of course I didn't because that would disappoint my mother, and Marci would give me such a glare that I'd be seeking to slither into some storm drain into the sewer, which, of course, because we were in the Park Cities, would be as clean as a polished granite fountain and smell like roses because everyone knows the uppity people only poop out fragrant flower petals.

Alright, Steve.  Don't veer off into a left-wing diatribe against the rich here.  How many vagrants do you observe buying books?  Think of your audience, think of your audience.

I actually have always had a fascination and respect for the upper-middle class.  I was even briefly one of them.  However, I was never drawn to them as much as when I was poor.  I'd drive down from Lloyd's and my apartment in north Dallas to Turtle Creek, park, and spend hours walking shaded lanes, looking at the great stone and brick houses.  At night, I'd dream I was dating one of those wealthy man's daughters.  It often went like this:  she'd be in her pink sweater and gray plaid skirt, outside a gorgeous home, ready to hop into a sleek, black convertible to head off to a SMU sorority gig.  Then, I'd pull up in the old 74 Mustang, as was so often the case, and convince her to hop in  with me instead. 

What's not to respect?  Nice homes, nice cars, good education, people interested in and supportive of the arts.  Usually very nice people.  But I was also keenly aware of how unfair the system is.  There is a myth in America that prosperity is based on ambition and work ethic.  It's not.  Working minimum wage jobs, I saw grandmothers put in 10 hour shifts at fast food joints, not because they liked being on their feet all day at the age of sixty-five, but because they had no other choice.  They had worked hard all their lives and had nothing but experience to show for it.  No, most wealth in America is not a result of hard work--although that may clearly be involved.  Rather, it is a result of having wealth, education, and connections to begin with.  That is what fraternities and sororities are really about.  College drinking buddies become business associates.  It's a closed world by design, where the rich associate with the rich and the poor associate with the poor, and the two worlds are kept safely separate by design.  So, part of me dreamed of entering that world of refined tastes and beautiful things, and part of me wanted to blow the whole damn system apart.  I'd be lying if I said it wasn't partly because of personal jealousy.  It was.  But it had much more to do with seeing that grandmother working behind the fast-food counter.  What a way to be rewarded for a lifetime of ambition

Much later, after becoming a teacher, and feeling I'd achieved some sort of success in this life, I found myself in a situation that brought back all the anger and shame of being stuck in minimum wage jobs:

Oh that Rococo Life

Slowly breaking apart
a cranberry muffin,
sucking down the sweet morsels
with over-creamed coffee.

Palm trees sway beyond
the marble-floored lobby
and empty sunken bar
through great Venetian windows,
beyond a great red-tiled patio
and heavy white balustrade.

I read Pictures of the Gone World
by Lawrence Ferlinghetti.

Says here, poem 25 (quote)
The world is a beautiful place
                                    To be born into
If you don't mind happiness
                                    Not always being
                                                            So much fun.

What the hell, I'll try it.
The kids are with Grandma.
Marci's in class.
The room is paid for
with one week's salary.

Nothing to do
but hang out at the pool
and read Lawrence Ferlinghetti,
look at beautiful
lotion-glowing bodies
from ages 5 to 70,
weighing between 40
and 250 pounds.

Yes, this world is a beautiful place
to be born into.

Though yesterday
when we got lost
in that neighborhood
of duplexes
and run-down apartment complexes
that didn't quite qualify for a slum
but was part of the working poor world
that I knew for so long,
and I went in that 7-11
to find some way out
of the hell-mood
I'd sank into
but instead saw myself behind the counter
in a stupid dehumanizing uniform
with a damn name tag on it,
smiling back at me,
knowing I'd always be here,
behind some convenience store counter
working eight hours a day
to get nowhere,
I got to tell you
I thought again
the world
is nothing
but a great big shit ball
with all of us swarming over it,
pushing and shoving
for the chance
to bite right in.

Today there are palms outside the window.
rich girls in bikinis,
rich daddies in loafers,
and it's true--
                      The world is a beautiful place
To be born into
                       If you don't mind happiness
Not always being
                       So much fun.

As Marci and I walked across Hilcrest to SMU and the Meadows Museum, I was conflicted as I always am around the good things in life--Oh so drawn to the refinement while simultaneously ready to pull out the picket signs and go to battle.  I have love-hate emotions towards the well-to-do.  I know they are responsible for so many good things we enjoy as a general public--museums, symphony halls, the opera houses, zoos, not to mention colleges and universities.  I also know most wealthy people are really good people--not just some uppity people looking down on the rest of us with disdain as we so often like to think they are doing.  That is generally as inaccurate a perception as is the "welfare queen" stereotype.   However, I also know they do quietly accept the system that has tilted everything in their favor.  I don't blame them.  I would probably do the same.  Yet, I lived in and worked in the minimum wage world long enough to know what it does to people, and so there is a part of me that is Oh so ready for revolution.

Being lost and having no clue where the Meadows Museum was while the day started to heat up and make the walk uncomfortable helped get me out of my power-to-the-people funk, and it really is a funk if you're not prepared to do something about it.   So, we searched desperately among the many red-brick and stone (or concrete) columned buildings looking for the Meadows Museum.  With the aid of Google maps on Marci's phone, we eventually found it, and entered again that the cool, sacred space called museum where one's only obligation is to truly see what is before you.  I love that feeling.

I'd always liked the work of Salvador Dali, although I'd only known it from books.  Still, Dali would not have been among my first pick of exhibits.  That is, until I saw this show.  You see, I'd always assumed the great sense of space and atmosphere in his dream-like landscapes came with scale--which, when a painting is big enough, is not that hard of a thing to accomplish.  However, works that I had assumed from reproductions in books to be quite large, are in fact, very small.  And the amazing thing is they hold up at great distances away from the museum wall despite their tiny size.  That he can get such a sense of space on such a tiny picture plane is pure magic.  I think most people are drawn to Dali for his surreal imagery.  I was drawn to his work because he was also a fine landscape painter.  His technique and success are undeniable.  Take Phantom Cart (pictured above), which is 7.4 inches by 9.4 inches, smaller than a sheet of notebook paper.  And yet the sense of space, distance, and blurred detail on the sun-drenched city in the background, is astoundingly accurate to this world.

Perhaps even more shockingly accurate is Geological Justice (pictured below), which is only 4 inches by 7 inches.  Here an entire ocean scene, complete with moisture heavy coastal clouds, bight sunny cliff and a couple sail boats are interrupted by what appears to be a giant tire track flattening what once was an artificial sea wall.  At least that's my read on it.  What's important is not the actual image but the sense of space created on such a minuscule scale.  Utterly amazing.

Geological Justice by Fundacio Gala-Salvador Dali, 1936 
And so we spent the mid-afternoon wandering around the Meadows Museum lost in the expansive spaces of Dali' little-bitty paintings.  And then, as you always do on vacation--we left that magic world behind for the next experience, heaping loss upon loss.








Saturday, September 14, 2019

The Great Texas Road Trip Thank-You Tour: 32. Dallas and a Day of Art, No. 1. Valley House Gallery

Marci and I stand next to Lloyd's painting, 54 Sky Panels from Holden
to Sevier Lake, Utah, US Highway 50
at Valley House Gallery

Travel Date:  September 11, 2018

It had rained.  We dropped down the wet black asphalt drive to Valley House Gallery tucked deep in woods rattling with the sound of cicada by the banks of a slow-moving black-water creek.  Great trees arched over the drive and the noise from the outside world of the city was all but hushed by the all-absorbing greenery alive with insect and bird song.  Only the sound of our car door slamming and the distant hum of a weed-eater broke the natural reverie.

As we crossed the wet parking lot, my eyes took in wet leaves clinging to the still damp pavement.  Although the leaves were not yet gold, and there were no puddles left, the scene reminded me of one of my brother's paintings, S & K Dairy Cup, Hoagland, Ohio, US 50, a painting of a small town drive-in on a wet fall day.  In it, low clouds hang on the horizon.  There is an electrical pole and a sign for a school by a green sports field.  There is a golden tree that has lost half of its leaves to the soggy weather and a green tree next to it that has been more determined to hang on to its summer load.  And then there is the drive-in:  classic American red, white and blue;  large plate-glass windows;  a tall, stainless steel soft-serve machine inside.  You get the picture (and if you don't--there it is below).  Then there's the obsidian-slick black pavement out front littered with wet fall leaves.  It's so real, you can almost feel the mist in the air and hear the distant swish of tires breaking water on the highway.  The image transports you.  You're now in slow, rainy-day heaven.  The type of day that makes you just want to sit in your car in an otherwise empty parking lot as you read a book and occasionally look up from the page to watch beads of water break into twisting rivulets that stretch and distort the world outside.  It's the type of day that you're there but not really there, always moments away from putting your book down in the passenger seat and sliding into a deep sleep only to be woken-up by the sound of a distant semi-truck putting on its Jake brakes.

S & K Dairy Cup, Hoagland, Ohio, US Highway 50, acrylic painting by Lloyd Brown 2018

I was not with Lloyd when he photographed the S & K Dairy Cup.  I did not go along on that epic trip across Highway 50 to the east coast.  Around 1988 our lives started to diverge.  Although we now live less than a city-block's distance away from each other, and see each other almost daily, that has not changed.  We each have our own lives now. However, that was not true back in the mid-eighties.  Family-wise, there was just us living in a metropolitan area of three million people.  Almost every journey we took, we took together, and so, although I was not in this particular wet parking lot, there are so many similar scenes I was there for, that I might as well have been.

Steamy drives east towards the big thicket were frequent, as were cold, winter drives headed north in the vein hopes of finding snow.   Once, on Christmas day, instead of finding snow, we found the Talemena Mountains of Oklahoma glazed with ice after dark.  Oh that was stunning.  And along the way, so often, there'd be a street scene of a convenient store, a drive-in, or a cafe reflected in a wet highway.  A 7-11 in Gainsville, Texas was one such place.  Roads and rainy days form entire albums in my recollections of life with Lloyd.  The swoosh.  That slow slightly depressing serenity of low clouds dragging across deep green horizons.  A cup of coffee.  A doughnut or a Dr. Pepper.  Time and distance.  Water on the windshield.

Frisch's Big Boy, Milford, Ohio, US Highway 50, acrylic painting by Lloyd Brown 2018

This particular great, gray day, however, was spent with Marci, and we were off to see art, starting with Lloyd's one-man show, Cross Country on Highway 50, at Valley House Gallery.   We walked into that quiet, sacred interior that I love so much, where your only obligation at the moment is to truly see.  Well, usually.  This time we had barely started looking around when a woman came out from the other room, "You must be Lloyd's brother."  Lloyd must have let her know we were coming.  And so began the introductions.  Thank goodness Marci was beside me.  She is SO MUCH better at that social stuff than I am.   I am never at ease around others beyond family and a few very close friends, but I'm more at ease being beside someone at ease than I am by myself facing the voice inside my head that screams Get out of here now!   Get in a car.  Go find a wet, empty parking lot on a rainy day and sit in a mild stupor watching the world bend and stretch through runs of water.  And if you can't find that, just find any place where you can be anonymous.

The woman was Cheryl Vogel, the co-owner of the gallery, and not exactly a stranger.  But it had been a long time, a very long time, and I'd only met her a half-dozen times.  Her and her husband had taken Lloyd and I out to dinner once--I remember that--but if I saw her in a mall I'd walk right on by with no clue that I'd just passed somebody I knew.  She was, however, incredibly nice, and gave us a personal tour, sharing stories about Lloyd.  Not surprising some of those stories had to do with his shyness.  Both of us once struggled greatly with it.  I still do at times.  He's either conquered it, or has created an effective mask to hide it.  I see him in public these days and think, Is that my brother?  Don't get me wrong; he's no extrovert.  But, he seems at ease with himself and the world around him.  That was definitely not the case back in the 1980s when Valley House Gallery signed him up as one of their artists.

Cheryl walked us around and took our picture next to 54 Sky Panels from Holden to Sevier Lake, Utah, US Highway 50, the largest piece in the show.  And then she left us to wander and look, as would have been our privilege at any museum.

Ultimately, the true impact of any good museum or gallery is that it allows you to forget yourself for a while as you become absorbed into the images before you--almost literally pulled into the lines, colors, and textures.


Amtrak a Passing Shadow, Granada, Colorado, US Highway 50,
acrylic painting by Lloyd Brown 2014

And so we were pulled into the work of my brother.  Lloyd plays around a lot with line, form, surface, texture and perception.  He spent some of his career creating mixed-media three-dimensional dioramas to enhance the sense of space in his work.  In the process, he discovered it wasn't the literal, physical dimensions within the diorama that created the sense of space, but rather getting light and visual weight right.  The sky has to feel lighter than the ground.  The detail on a distance mountain has to be there--our eyes pick it up in real life--but it has to feel softer than gravel at your feet.  So, he spends a lot of time not just getting the form and color of the images right, but also getting the weight and surface light right.  Because of this, in my opinion, he has surpassed Edward Hopper in capturing America.  Hopper operates on simplification, abstraction, archetype.  He gives you enough to recognize a similar scene in your own life, and your mind fills in the rest with emotional connection.  It's mighty powerful.  But Lloyd gives you surface-weight and light in such exquisite detail the picture plane all but disappears.  It feels like you can walk right into what you're viewing regardless of scale.  The picture above, Amtrak, a Passing Shadow, Granada, Colorado, US Highway 50 is a perfect example of this illusion.  The piece sits on a shelf like an open book, and so the left panel literally comes forward in space towards the viewer, while the train appears to continue back towards the horizon, in the process sucking the observer into the scene.

Basically, Lloyd has become such an effective painter that the surface he paints on no longer matters.  He could paint a scene of a straight Kansas highway on a 50 gallon oil drum, and despite the obvious curvature of the the "canvas" contradicting reality, you, the viewer, would still be able to walk on down that highway towards some distant horizon. 


Steve Calls Home on the Loneliest Phone in America, US Highway 50, Nevada,
multimedia by Lloyd Brown 2014-2017

Although I think Cheryl truly tried to leave us alone so that we could just spend time with Lloyd's paintings, she couldn't resist popping in again as we viewed the painting above, one of my personal favorites, Steve Calls Home on the Loneliest Phone in America, US Highway 50, Nevada.  Lloyd and I had planned to create a book about Highway 50 from central Utah to Reno, a route we traveled often when we were younger, going back and forth between our mom's home in Utah and our dad's home in Reno.  Lloyd succeeded on his part of the project; I failed on mine, and the book was never completed.  The written part was a dialogue between our one-week trip across Nevada and my then current life as a teacher on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona.  And so when Marci and I moved, so much happened so quickly, the piece seemed to just get bogged down in long runs of exposition in a vein attempt to explain what was going on in my then current life.  In the process, the writing lost its immediacy, and with that, I lost the will to write.  Perhaps, that is why I'm so determined to finish this book.  I want to complete some written record of at least one journey that I've taken in this life before I die.  The road, thanks to both my father and Lloyd, is a big chunk of who I am today.  There is no I without the highway.

After viewing Lloyd's show and purchasing several copies of his catalog, Marci and I wandered around the lush gardens surrounding the gallery and the Vogel's home.  It's such an amazing space.  And the day was fantastic.  Cool, moist and driven by bird song.  It was hard to leave, but, of course we did, because that is part of what you do when you travel--you leave behind what drew you to that space in the first place.  Ultimately, that only intensifies the experience.  We travel so we can leave behind something that matters deeply to us so that we can pine for it years afterwards.


The grounds at Valley House Gallery, September 11, 2018